OpenLUX Assembly Notes


The gerber files in the repository are ready to submit to a board house, I recommend OSHPark! Once you receive them, assembly is straightforward–all components are labeled on the board.

Take care to ensure the LCD and encoder are on the opposite side of the components! Use pin socket headers for the Teensy, but solder the LCD directly to the board.

The rest of the chassis wiring is as follows:

You’ll need to connect the 12V and Ground rails together outside the PCB, and solder a single wire to the board.

To secure the PCB, remove the Teensy and first screw on the encoder. Then, using one of the 4-40 self tapping screws and a piece of plastic, secure the opposite side. Replug the Teensy afterwards.

Light Engine

The “light engine” consists of the LED, heatsink, fan, and front metal bezel.

Drill the heatsink holes as per the HeatSinkDrillPattern PDF. The best way to do this is to print the template, cut it out, and spray glue it to the heatsink. Then simply punch and tap the holes to the size indicated!

All the specc’d screws are self tapping and should require no manual tapping of the holes. Simply screw on the LED.

The Front Bezel needs to be laser cut from aluminum, I like using SendCutSend. The heatsink has a silver thermal pad built in and needs no additional thermal compound.

The fan mounts from the front of the bezel, and the long M6 bolts and nuts are used to secure everything together in a sandwich.

You will need to extend the output wires from the LED drivers to to the LED. Soldering the LED is difficult due to the high thermal mass, crank the heat of your iron and pray to the molten metal gods.

I’ve mounted the fan pulling air through the heatsink, exhausting into the case. In theory, this should produce less of an airflow bottleneck as well as making the pressure inside the case slightly positive, preventing dust ingress.


The front lens holder accepts Molly lenses from Ledil, and they come in a wide, medium, and tight. These are a simple press fit into the 3D print, no glue required, and the holder can slide forward and back to provide some adjustment.